Tanpu Fortress
Saturday, December 6th, 2008
In the 16th century, during the Ming dynasty, the emperor built a fortress to protect him from the local uprising against him. 300,000 soldiers from Central China were sent and stayed for decades, until the end of the Cultural Revolution. The government asked the soldiers to stay rather than return to their home cities. Their families followed them. These soldiers considered themselves better than the locals and used their own language and costumes. What resulted is the preservation of an ancient way of life that goes back to the Old Han. It was undiscovered for a long time, and when it was the government pledged to preserve it. The number of tourists who are able to visit is strictly regulated. As a result, I was able to visit a place that has been inhabited by the same people since the 16th century and the Ming dynasty. I actually saw a 74-year-old woman in her home. 16 generations of her family have lived there.
The people who built the Tanpu Fortress in this area thought that the mountains reminded them of a dragon. The Buddhist temple was built in the perfect location to make up the head of the dragon. I said prayers and kneeled to give an offering at the temple. Originally, there were 600 hand-carved wooden gates throughout the fortress. Only 50 remain, because they were burned by the red guards during the cultural revolution.
Entering the fortress, little children were hand washing their clothing in the river. There was also a well called the Bright Well. These people believe that if you drink the water you will be smart and become a scholar. In the fortress itself, there were no right angles. T-junctions are considered unlucky. The walls are rounded and have secret holes through which arrows could be shot into the head or heart of attackers.
I bought a special hand-carved mask for my father from a small group of villagers. It will be a wonderful way for my family to treasure the 16 generations of families who have lived in the fortress.